A poorly fitted harness causes long-term joint damage. Learn how to protect their movement on every trail.
Dogs don't have collarbones. Their legs attach via muscle alone. Pressure on the shoulder blades isn't just uncomfortable—it's structural interference.
Horizontal "T-bars" block the natural rotation of the scapula. Look for the Y-shape instead. It leaves joints free to move through a full range of motion.
Forget the collar line. Measure where the neck meets the shoulders in centimetres. Too high, and you're putting pressure on the trachea.
Never let the girth strap sit in the armpit. Leave about 4cm of space to prevent painful friction and skin irritation during long treks.
The harness must center on the breastbone. If it's resting on soft throat tissue, your dog is losing power and comfort on the walk.
Two fingers should slide flat between the strap and your dog's skin. No more, no less. This prevents the "slip and chafe" effect.
A harness that looks good standing might shift when they trot. Watch from above—is it staying centered on their spine as they move?
Bulky parkas change the fit entirely. Re-adjust your harness every time you add or remove a layer. One size doesn't fit all seasons.
Sighthounds and escape artists need a three-strap harness around the narrow waist. Don't rely on neck tension for security.
Front legs should move straight like pistons. If they're swinging wide, the chest strap is blocking their reach and hurting their stride.
A harness isn't for control; it's a tool for skeletal freedom. When the fit is right, their gait is effortless and their joints are protected.
Get the measurement checklist and video guide to verify your dog's fit today.