In Australia, there are zero mandatory safety standards for pet restraints. Your "safe" gear might be useless in a real collision.
At 50km/h, a 30kg dog hits with the force of a small car. If your restraint can't hold a tonne, it's not a safety device—it's a leash.
Cheap plastic or zinc clips shear instantly under load. You need mountaineering-grade steel hardware rated for at least 15kN.
Long tethers act as a radius. The longer the lead, the harder your dog slams into the seat or pillar during a rotation. Short is safe.
In a ute, a long tether is a death sentence. If they can reach the edge of the tray, they can be thrown over. Keep the radius tight.
Bungee tethers snap your dog back with equal force after impact. You need energy-absorbing webbing that stretches only slightly.
Brittle zinc castings contain hidden air bubbles. Forged steel is hammered for strength. Don't trust your mate's life to a mould.
Summer heat makes plastic buckles "creep" and deform. All-metal "Cobra" or nesting buckles are the only way to stay secure in the sun.
A loose harness lets your dog gain momentum before the restraint kicks in. If you can fit more than two fingers under the strap, it’s too loose.
Australian Road Rules allow for heavy fines and demerit points for "unrestrained loads" that could distract the driver.
A crash-tested crate is a "safety cell," but a high-end harness is a great secondary option. Never use a regular walking harness.
Survival isn't about the brand on the box. It’s about tensile strength and forged metal. Protect your mate with physics, not marketing.
See the exact kilonewton ratings and the hardware checklist you need for a safe Aussie road trip.